6336A Push-Pull Amplifier – High Damping and Low Feedback

This project originated from the research I carried out in the article Damping with zero feedback: is it possible?, which explored the possibility of achieving a good damping factor in a tube amplifier without relying on negative feedback. Among the tubes examined in that article, the 6336 is particularly interesting. It is a power dual triode characterized by very low internal resistance, a feature that naturally provides good control over the load and therefore a higher damping factor than is normally achievable with many other power triodes. These considerations led to this SB-LAB premium project: a class A push-pull amplifier using a single 6336A per channel, with the two triode sections inside the tube used separately as the output devices for the two halves of the push-pull stage.

A single 6336A per channel in class A push-pull

The output stage operates with an output transformer specifically designed for this configuration. The use of the 6336 provides an inherently favorable starting point in terms of damping, allowing the overall negative feedback to be limited to just a few dB: only what is needed to fine-tune the overall behavior of the circuit and compensate for the small, unavoidable imbalances between the two halves. The objective is therefore not to heavily correct the amplifier through feedback, but rather to design an output stage that already has good electrical characteristics on its own and use negative feedback only to the extent strictly necessary.

Fully balanced input and driver stages

The input and driver section uses a fully balanced topology. Two ECC88 tubes are used together with a 6SN7 as the final driver for the 6336. The ECC88/ECC88/6SN7 stages are directly DC-coupled, eliminating intermediate coupling capacitors. The only two capacitors in the signal path are those coupling the driver to the two sections of the 6336. This is a deliberate choice: to keep the circuit simple, linear and free from unnecessary components along the audio signal path.

Separate power supplies and CLC filtering

The power supply has also been designed without cutting corners. The output stage and driver section have separate power supplies, with diode rectification and CLC filtering. Separating the power supplies helps prevent the high currents drawn by the output stage from interfering with the small-signal and driver stages. The set of transformers and chokes is specifically manufactured for this project and includes the output transformers, power transformers and chokes required to build the filters specified in the schematic.

The sonic result

Those who have already built this amplifier have particularly appreciated its clarity, control and ability to reproduce a detailed soundstage without losing the naturalness and sense of presence expected from a good triode amplifier. Its character remains warm and engaging without becoming excessively soft, with a well-controlled low-frequency range and good definition of the sonic image. This is precisely the central idea behind the project: to obtain the typical qualities of a triode output stage without having to resort to large amounts of negative feedback to maintain control over the loudspeaker.

SB-LAB Premium Project
The complete circuit schematic is supplied together with the corresponding set of transformers and chokes specifically manufactured for the project. The price is quoted upon request according to the components required and the supply conditions at the time. For information, availability and a quotation for the complete set, you can contact me by clicking here.

Circuit schematic and amplifier built by a customer

The complete circuit schematic for this amplifier is available exclusively together with the corresponding SB-LAB transformer and choke set and is not supplied separately. The photographs below show an example of the amplifier built by a customer based on the SB-LAB design.

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Pioneer SM-83 Restoration, Repair and Complete EL84 Rebuild

The Pioneer SM-83 is a fairly common Japanese tube amplifier that can still be found today at vintage electronics markets, such as Marzaglia, or through second-hand listings. Units requiring restoration are often sold for between €100 and €150, although the actual price naturally depends on their overall condition.

In this article I present two very different projects. The first part covers the repair of a Pioneer SM-83 and explains the issue with its original 7189A output tubes, which should not be replaced directly with standard EL84s. The second part describes a completely new amplifier built by reusing the chassis and a few surviving parts from an SM-83 that had been reduced to little more than scrap.

Repairing and Retubing the Pioneer SM-83

From a circuit standpoint, the Pioneer SM-83 is not a particularly complicated amplifier and, in most cases, can be repaired without major difficulties. The main concern involves the original output tubes: four 7189As.

For many years the 7189A was available only as a NOS tube, with prices often exceeding the value of the entire amplifier. Today the situation has improved thanks to the new production Tung-Sol 7189, which finally offers a practical solution for anyone wishing to keep the amplifier in its original configuration without relying exclusively on expensive vintage tubes.

The 7189A belongs to the EL84 family but is designed to withstand significantly higher plate and screen grid voltages. For a more detailed explanation of the differences between these tubes, see the article “Exploring the EL84 Tube Family“.

The Pioneer SM-83 was advertised as a 28-watt amplifier, although I have never personally measured more than about 20 watts RMS before clipping. It is likely that the published specification included output levels measured at considerably higher distortion.

I have repaired several Pioneer amplifiers and some Scott models originally designed for 7189A tubes where someone had simply installed standard EL84s without making any circuit changes. The amplifier may appear to work for some time, but the EL84s are exposed to voltages well beyond their ratings and are eventually destined to fail.

The important point to remember is that there is no true modern direct replacement for the 7189A. Anyone wishing to keep a Pioneer SM-83 completely original should use genuine 7189A tubes and accept their higher cost.

Restoration and Repair of the Pioneer SM-83

The amplifier shown in these photographs arrived in my workshop with the typical age-related problems. After more than fifty years of service, it is perfectly normal to find dried-out electrolytic capacitors, out-of-tolerance components and solder joints requiring careful inspection.

The restoration included a complete inspection of the amplifier, replacement of genuinely deteriorated components, verification of the power supply voltages and tube bias, followed by final testing. The goal was to restore the amplifier to its original operating condition while preserving as much authenticity as possible and avoiding unnecessary modifications.


Complete Rebuild of a Pioneer SM-83

The second part of this article is not about a conventional repair. In this case, the original Pioneer contributed mainly its chassis, power transformer and a few other reusable parts. Everything else was designed and built from scratch.

The customer owned an SM-83 with a burned-out output transformer, several circuit faults and no output tubes. In practical terms it was little more than scrap, but the chassis still retained the distinctive appearance of the original Pioneer amplifier. I was therefore commissioned to develop a Premium custom project that would reuse the chassis, the original power transformer and any remaining components still suitable for service.

The objective was to preserve the appearance and basic structure of the original SM-83 while creating a completely new, straightforward and modern amplifier inside. No tone controls, complicated input selectors or unnecessary features—just one or two inputs, a volume control and little else.

The output stage uses four EL84 tubes operating with fixed bias. Each channel employs an ECC82 as the phase splitter, while the original 6AN8 input stage was retained. The original output transformers were replaced with a pair of my own 8KPP84A transformers. The original Pioneer power transformer was retained, and several original capacitors were also reused after being tested and found to be in good condition.

The power supply does not use filter chokes. Instead, the high-voltage filtering is achieved through a double CRCRC network, a simple yet entirely suitable solution for this design.

Naturally, the same amplifier can also be built entirely from scratch without starting from an old SM-83. In that case, a suitable power transformer would also be required. Below is a censored version of the Premium schematic:

Once construction was completed, the amplifier was brought to me for final adjustment, bias setting and laboratory measurements. The workmanship was excellent. A new aluminum front panel was fabricated, the chassis was repainted and the amplifier was assembled using standard surplus electronic components. No boutique capacitors or so-called audiophile components were used—only properly specified, carefully selected and thoroughly tested parts.

Laboratory Measurements

Measured output power is approximately 12 watts RMS per channel before obvious clipping occurs. Frequency response extends from about 8 Hz to 90 kHz within ±1 dB. Total harmonic distortion at 1 watt measures 0.15%. Negative feedback has been deliberately kept moderate. The measured damping factor is approximately 5.5, corresponding to an output impedance of around 1.4 ohms.

Spectrum Analysis at 1 Watt

Frequency Response with Resistive Load

Frequency Response with Reactive Load

8 Hz Sine Wave

The following image shows the 8 Hz sine wave. I wanted to include this measurement because a frequency response graph alone does not fully describe the low-frequency behavior of an output transformer.

A transformer may show very little amplitude loss while already introducing visible waveform distortion. I have observed this even with well-known, expensive transformers whose sine wave started to deform below about 70 Hz.

In the graph, the yellow trace represents the signal from the function generator, while the blue trace is the amplifier output. At 8 Hz the sine wave remains well preserved. Noticeable distortion only began to appear around 6–7 Hz.

At such low frequencies, phase shift is naturally present, and performance of this kind may have little practical importance for normal music reproduction. Nevertheless, it remains an interesting measurement, especially considering how often discussions on internet forums focus on huge primary inductances, miraculous core materials and almost mythical transformer designs without verifying their actual performance on the test bench.

Square Waves at 100 Hz, 1 kHz and 10 kHz

1 kHz Triangle Wave

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How to Make a Chinese Tube Amplifier Sound Better – A Creative Modding Guide

Related projects:

More than once I have asked myself what the most sensible way would be to allow DIY enthusiasts to build a good tube amplifier without spending absurd amounts of money. Building a unit completely from scratch can become expensive very quickly, especially if you want to use decent components, a well-made chassis and output transformers worthy of the project. On the other hand, the Chinese market offers assembly kits aimed at beginners, often sold at very low prices. Below are two examples.

There is a community of Chinese tube amplifier enthusiasts who genuinely appreciate these products and the results they can achieve. Some even claim that certain models sound as good as, or even better than, much more expensive equipment. In some cases this may actually be true, because the world of high-end tube audio is full of extremely expensive amplifiers built more around imaginative theories than sound engineering principles. A high price alone guarantees neither good performance nor good design.

That does not mean, however, that you can simply buy a cheap kit, assemble it as supplied and expect miracles. The interesting part, at least for those who truly enjoy working with electronics, is using these amplifiers as a mechanical foundation on which to build something better. Taking them apart, understanding them, modifying, correcting and rebuilding them is all part of the fun.

This article is not aimed at people who simply want to buy a ready-made amplifier, connect it to their hi-fi system and forget about it. It is intended for those who enjoy the building process itself, studying the circuit and making real improvements to the amplifier. In many cases it is not even about saving money – the journey itself is what makes it worthwhile.

If you want a Chinese tube amplifier to perform really well, replacing a couple of capacitors or installing a set of NOS tubes is usually not enough. In many cases almost everything has to be stripped out and a completely new amplifier built inside the same chassis. You keep the cabinet, some of the hardware, the tube sockets if they are decent, perhaps the power transformer if it proves satisfactory, and replace everything that genuinely limits performance. Yes, it is a demanding job, but for those who enjoy this hobby it is also a great deal of fun.

For this reason it makes little sense to criticize people who modify these amplifiers or dismiss the whole idea as something only “charlatans” would do. This is not simply about buying an amplifier to listen to music. It is about DIY construction, learning, experimenting and tube amplifier modding. The real satisfaction comes from transforming an ordinary product into something far more serious.

This approach is also an excellent educational tool. Rebuilding a Chinese tube amplifier allows you to understand in practice how vacuum tubes operate, what the transformers actually do, how much influence the circuit has on the final result and why apparently minor design choices can completely change the amplifier’s behaviour.

Personally, I make schematics, transformers and my experience available precisely to help anyone who wants to follow this path. There is absolutely nothing to be ashamed of in starting from an inexpensive kit, as long as you understand exactly what you are doing. It is a practical, hands-on and often highly educational way to enter the world of tube amplifiers.

One of the main obstacles for many DIY builders, especially beginners, is producing the mechanical structure. Making a clean, sturdy and accurately drilled chassis requires time, proper tools and a certain amount of experience. It is no coincidence that many interesting electrical projects eventually end up inside rather embarrassing enclosures…

Far better to modify a Chinese amplifier yourself than to buy something like this…

Poorly drilled boxes with even worse workmanship inside…

The idea is not limited to beginners. Even experienced builders may find it worthwhile to buy an inexpensive kit simply to reuse the chassis, hardware and mechanical parts, while completely rebuilding the electrical section. Take, for example, the EL34 kit shown in the previous screenshot.

For approximately €212, based on the exchange rate on August 30, 2020, it was possible to buy a kit containing a pre-drilled steel chassis, vacuum tubes, sockets, switches, mounting hardware, RCA connectors, speaker terminals and various small parts suitable for building a point-to-point wired amplifier without using a printed circuit board. Purchasing all these parts separately, or having an equivalent chassis manufactured, would easily cost more. That does not even take into account the time required for the mechanical work.

However, enthusiasm should be tempered straight away: achieving good performance from these amplifiers does not simply mean replacing a few tubes with NOS equivalents or fitting more expensive capacitors. The main limitations almost always lie in the transformers and the circuit design. In the EL34 kit, for example, the published schematic shows a 6N9P dual triode, equivalent to the 6SL7, driving the EL34. The two internal sections are connected in parallel, although that tube could probably have been used more effectively. It would also have been possible to evaluate using a single dual triode to drive both output tubes through a more rational design.

I do not want to sound overly critical, but I often see enthusiasts spending more money on NOS tubes than they originally spent on the entire amplifier. Some improvement may well be audible, but this kind of upgrade is unlikely to transform the amplifier into something significantly better. If the real limitations lie in the circuit or the transformers, even the most prestigious tubes in the world cannot perform miracles.

The most sensible approach, in my opinion, is to regard these kits as a starting point. You can buy the kit, discard the original transformers – or at least the output transformers – verify the quality of the power transformer and completely rewire the amplifier using a better designed circuit. Where appropriate, you can install higher-quality capacitors, a better potentiometer and components better suited to the performance you want to achieve.

It is true that such a modification may ultimately cost more than the original kit. However, if you were to build the same amplifier entirely from scratch, you would still need to buy the chassis, sockets, connectors, switches and all the other mechanical hardware. The real advantage is that these kits already provide most of the mechanical parts and a chassis that is drilled and ready to use. That saves a great deal of time, physical work and frustration.

Browsing these Chinese marketplaces, you can find a variety of assembly kits that make an excellent starting point for something much more serious. The only important point is to choose kits designed for point-to-point wiring rather than printed circuit boards. With PCBs, the tube sockets are often mounted directly on the board instead of the chassis, making major modifications much more difficult. Printed circuit boards are also poorly suited to larger components, such as certain high-quality capacitors.

The same principle applies not only to new kits but also to used amplifiers. Even a non-working amplifier bought cheaply can become an excellent mechanical platform for building something completely different. On the other hand, it makes little sense to buy an expensive new amplifier only to dismantle and rebuild it immediately. I will return to this subject in a dedicated article in the future.

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